Electrolux E60
Heating Error
Medium severityExpert Guide
SeverityMedium
What Your Machine Is Actually Telling You
E60 means the control board is sending power to the heating element but the water temperature isn't rising as expected. The board monitors the NTC temperature sensor (thermistor) during the heating phase, and after a set time, if the temperature hasn't increased by the expected amount, it concludes the heater has failed.
The heating element in a front-loading washer is a tubular metal rod (usually stainless steel) that sits at the bottom of the outer tub, submerged in water. It works exactly like the element in a kettle — electrical current flows through a resistance coil inside the tube, generating heat that transfers to the water.
How elements fail:
- Open circuit (most common): The internal resistance coil breaks. No current flows, no heat is generated. The element looks fine externally but is electrically dead. This is a natural end-of-life failure after ~5-10 years.
- Grounding to the tub (dangerous): The insulating material between the coil and the outer tube degrades, allowing current to leak from the element to the metal tub. This trips the RCD/GFCI breaker and is a shock hazard.
- Limescale insulation: In hard water areas, a thick layer of calcium builds up on the element. This acts as insulation, preventing heat from transferring to the water efficiently. The element overheats internally and eventually burns out.
E60 vs E70/E71: E60 = heater circuit issue. E70/E71 = temperature sensor (NTC) circuit issue. The symptoms are similar (no heat), but the cause and fix are different.
The heating element in a front-loading washer is a tubular metal rod (usually stainless steel) that sits at the bottom of the outer tub, submerged in water. It works exactly like the element in a kettle — electrical current flows through a resistance coil inside the tube, generating heat that transfers to the water.
How elements fail:
- Open circuit (most common): The internal resistance coil breaks. No current flows, no heat is generated. The element looks fine externally but is electrically dead. This is a natural end-of-life failure after ~5-10 years.
- Grounding to the tub (dangerous): The insulating material between the coil and the outer tube degrades, allowing current to leak from the element to the metal tub. This trips the RCD/GFCI breaker and is a shock hazard.
- Limescale insulation: In hard water areas, a thick layer of calcium builds up on the element. This acts as insulation, preventing heat from transferring to the water efficiently. The element overheats internally and eventually burns out.
E60 vs E70/E71: E60 = heater circuit issue. E70/E71 = temperature sensor (NTC) circuit issue. The symptoms are similar (no heat), but the cause and fix are different.
What You're Probably Seeing Right Now
- Clothes come out of warm/hot cycles still cold — the water was never heated. You can tell by touching the door glass mid-cycle on a hot wash — it should be warm.
- The machine stops mid-cycle with E60 during what would be the heating phase — the board detected no temperature rise and aborted.
- Cold wash cycles work perfectly — since they don't use the heater, there's no problem. Only warm/hot cycles show E60.
- Your RCD/GFCI breaker trips when the washer runs — this is the dangerous ground-fault scenario. The element is leaking current. Stop using the machine until fixed.
- You've noticed your hot washes have been getting less effective over recent months — clothes not as clean, stubborn stains remaining. The element was degrading gradually before it finally failed.
DIY Fix — From Easiest to Hardest
1
Verify E60 Is Actually About the Heater (2 minutes)
Before replacing anything, confirm it's not a one-time glitch:
1. Unplug for **10 minutes.**
2. Run a **cold cycle** — does it complete without errors? If yes, the machine's basic functions are fine.
3. Run a **warm or hot cycle** — does E60 appear? If yes, the heater circuit is confirmed as the problem.
**If E60 appears even on cold cycles:** The issue may be the temperature sensor (NTC), not the heater. See E70 guide.
1. Unplug for **10 minutes.**
2. Run a **cold cycle** — does it complete without errors? If yes, the machine's basic functions are fine.
3. Run a **warm or hot cycle** — does E60 appear? If yes, the heater circuit is confirmed as the problem.
**If E60 appears even on cold cycles:** The issue may be the temperature sensor (NTC), not the heater. See E70 guide.
2
Check the Heater Connection (10 minutes)
Sometimes it's just a loose wire:
1. **Unplug the machine.**
2. **Remove the back panel.**
3. The heating element is at the **bottom of the outer tub** — you'll see two thick terminals poking out, usually with a ground wire attached.
4. **Check the wire connections** — are they firmly attached? Pull gently on each wire. If any come free, the connection was the problem.
5. Look for **burnt or melted connectors** — a failing element can draw excessive current through the connectors, causing heat damage.
6. Clean corroded terminals with **fine sandpaper** and reconnect firmly.
**If connectors are burned:** Replace them with appropriate high-temperature spade connectors.
1. **Unplug the machine.**
2. **Remove the back panel.**
3. The heating element is at the **bottom of the outer tub** — you'll see two thick terminals poking out, usually with a ground wire attached.
4. **Check the wire connections** — are they firmly attached? Pull gently on each wire. If any come free, the connection was the problem.
5. Look for **burnt or melted connectors** — a failing element can draw excessive current through the connectors, causing heat damage.
6. Clean corroded terminals with **fine sandpaper** and reconnect firmly.
**If connectors are burned:** Replace them with appropriate high-temperature spade connectors.
3
Test the Heating Element with a Multimeter (5 minutes)
This definitively confirms whether the element is dead:
1. **Unplug the machine.**
2. **Disconnect both wires** from the element terminals.
3. Set your multimeter to **resistance (Ω)** mode.
4. Place probes on the **two element terminals:**
- **20-30Ω** = element is fine (the exact value depends on wattage).
- **OL (infinity)** = element is open circuit — burned out. Needs replacement.
- **0Ω** = element is shorted — rare but needs replacement.
5. **Ground fault test:** Put one probe on an element terminal and the other on the **metal tub** or the element's metal casing. You should read **OL (infinity).** If you read any resistance at all (even thousands of ohms), the element is grounding to the tub — this is a **safety hazard** and the element must be replaced immediately.
**Important:** Even a very high resistance reading (e.g., 50,000Ω) on the ground test means the element is failing and will get worse.
1. **Unplug the machine.**
2. **Disconnect both wires** from the element terminals.
3. Set your multimeter to **resistance (Ω)** mode.
4. Place probes on the **two element terminals:**
- **20-30Ω** = element is fine (the exact value depends on wattage).
- **OL (infinity)** = element is open circuit — burned out. Needs replacement.
- **0Ω** = element is shorted — rare but needs replacement.
5. **Ground fault test:** Put one probe on an element terminal and the other on the **metal tub** or the element's metal casing. You should read **OL (infinity).** If you read any resistance at all (even thousands of ohms), the element is grounding to the tub — this is a **safety hazard** and the element must be replaced immediately.
**Important:** Even a very high resistance reading (e.g., 50,000Ω) on the ground test means the element is failing and will get worse.
4
Replace the Heating Element (25 minutes)
Element replacement is a straightforward DIY job:
1. **Order the correct element** — use your model number. Elements are wattage-specific (typically 1800W-2400W for Electrolux).
2. **Unplug the machine.**
3. Remove the back panel.
4. **Disconnect wires** from the old element terminals (photograph the connections first).
5. The element is held in by a **central retaining nut** with a rubber gasket seal. Loosen the nut (usually 10-13mm) — don't remove it completely, just loosen enough to push the stud inward, which compresses the rubber gasket and releases the element.
6. **Pull the element straight out.** It may take some wiggling — limescale can bond it to the tub opening. Work it gently side to side.
7. **Clean the element seat** — remove any limescale or debris from the tub opening.
8. **Push the new element in** — align it with the guides inside the tub. The element curves to follow the bottom of the drum.
9. Tighten the retaining nut until snug — **don't overtighten** or you'll damage the rubber seal.
10. Reconnect wires.
11. Run a hot cycle and check for **leaks around the element seal.**
**The most common mistake:** Overtightening the retaining nut. It only needs to be snug — the rubber expands to seal.
1. **Order the correct element** — use your model number. Elements are wattage-specific (typically 1800W-2400W for Electrolux).
2. **Unplug the machine.**
3. Remove the back panel.
4. **Disconnect wires** from the old element terminals (photograph the connections first).
5. The element is held in by a **central retaining nut** with a rubber gasket seal. Loosen the nut (usually 10-13mm) — don't remove it completely, just loosen enough to push the stud inward, which compresses the rubber gasket and releases the element.
6. **Pull the element straight out.** It may take some wiggling — limescale can bond it to the tub opening. Work it gently side to side.
7. **Clean the element seat** — remove any limescale or debris from the tub opening.
8. **Push the new element in** — align it with the guides inside the tub. The element curves to follow the bottom of the drum.
9. Tighten the retaining nut until snug — **don't overtighten** or you'll damage the rubber seal.
10. Reconnect wires.
11. Run a hot cycle and check for **leaks around the element seal.**
**The most common mistake:** Overtightening the retaining nut. It only needs to be snug — the rubber expands to seal.
5
Prevent Future Element Failure (Ongoing)
Limescale is the #1 element killer:
1. **Run a descale cycle monthly** — use a commercial descaler or 2 cups of white vinegar in an empty hot cycle.
2. **Use the correct amount of detergent** — excess detergent leaves residue that combines with minerals.
3. **If you have very hard water**, consider a water softener or use magnetic descaling devices.
4. **Don't always wash on hot** — unnecessary heat cycles accelerate limescale buildup and element wear.
**Lifespan tip:** A well-maintained element should last 8-12 years. In hard water areas without descaling, they may fail in 3-5 years.
1. **Run a descale cycle monthly** — use a commercial descaler or 2 cups of white vinegar in an empty hot cycle.
2. **Use the correct amount of detergent** — excess detergent leaves residue that combines with minerals.
3. **If you have very hard water**, consider a water softener or use magnetic descaling devices.
4. **Don't always wash on hot** — unnecessary heat cycles accelerate limescale buildup and element wear.
**Lifespan tip:** A well-maintained element should last 8-12 years. In hard water areas without descaling, they may fail in 3-5 years.
6
Check the NTC Temperature Sensor (3 minutes — while you have access)
Since you already have the back panel off:
1. The NTC sensor is usually **mounted on or near the heating element** — a small plastic probe pushed into a rubber grommet on the element or tub.
2. **Measure its resistance:** At room temperature (~20°C/68°F), it should read approximately **10kΩ to 15kΩ** (varies by model).
3. **If it reads 0Ω or OL:** The sensor has failed — replace it ($10-25). A failed sensor can cause E60 because the board can't verify temperature is rising.
**Two-for-one opportunity:** Since you have access and element replacement requires the same disassembly, replacing the NTC proactively is cheap insurance.
1. The NTC sensor is usually **mounted on or near the heating element** — a small plastic probe pushed into a rubber grommet on the element or tub.
2. **Measure its resistance:** At room temperature (~20°C/68°F), it should read approximately **10kΩ to 15kΩ** (varies by model).
3. **If it reads 0Ω or OL:** The sensor has failed — replace it ($10-25). A failed sensor can cause E60 because the board can't verify temperature is rising.
**Two-for-one opportunity:** Since you have access and element replacement requires the same disassembly, replacing the NTC proactively is cheap insurance.
When to Call a Pro
- •RCD/GFCI breaker keeps tripping — the element is grounding to the tub. This is a shock hazard. Do not bypass the breaker — replace the element: $150-$280 with a technician.
- •Element tests fine but water still isn't heating — the control board's triac (the component that switches power to the element) may have failed. Board repair or replacement: $200-$400.
- •You're not comfortable working with a component that carries mains voltage — heating elements run on full 120V/240V. If you're not confident, professional replacement: $150-$280.
- •Element is stuck and won't pull out — severe limescale bonding. Forcing it can crack the tub. A technician has specialized tools for this.
What It'll Cost You
Swipe left to see full table