KitchenAid F24
Water Temp Error
Low severityExpert Guide
SeverityLow
What Your Machine Is Actually Telling You
F24 means the CCU powered the heating element but the thermistor (temperature sensor) didn't detect the expected temperature increase. Unlike F23 (element open circuit), F24 is a symptom-based code — the board knows the temperature isn't rising but hasn't pinpointed why.
F24 vs F23:
- F23 = element resistance is OL (confirmed dead). Definitive.
- F24 = water not getting warmer. Could be element, sensor, board, or even water supply.
Possible causes:
1. Heating element failure (35%) — element works intermittently or has high resistance.
2. Thermistor failure (20%) — sensor is reading wrong values so the board can't see the real temperature.
3. Board heater relay (15%) — not sending full power to the element.
4. Wiring to element/sensor (10%) — intermittent connection.
5. High water flow (10%) — cold water entering faster than the element can heat.
6. Limescale on element (10%) — reducing heat transfer.
F24 vs F23:
- F23 = element resistance is OL (confirmed dead). Definitive.
- F24 = water not getting warmer. Could be element, sensor, board, or even water supply.
Possible causes:
1. Heating element failure (35%) — element works intermittently or has high resistance.
2. Thermistor failure (20%) — sensor is reading wrong values so the board can't see the real temperature.
3. Board heater relay (15%) — not sending full power to the element.
4. Wiring to element/sensor (10%) — intermittent connection.
5. High water flow (10%) — cold water entering faster than the element can heat.
6. Limescale on element (10%) — reducing heat transfer.
What You're Probably Seeing Right Now
- Hot/warm cycles produce lukewarm or cold water.
- Cold-only cycles work fine.
- The cycle runs much longer than normal — trying to reach temperature.
- F24 appeared gradually — washing performance declining over weeks.
- Occasional GFCI tripping — possible element ground fault.
DIY Fix — From Easiest to Hardest
1
Test the Thermistor First (Cheapest Fix, 5 minutes)
1. Unplug. Remove rear panel.
2. Find thermistor near the heater.
3. Disconnect. Measure resistance.
4. **~10,000Ω at room temp** = good.
5. **OL or 0Ω** = dead. Replace ($10-25).
**Check the thermistor first** because it's the cheapest fix and produces the same F24 symptom.
2. Find thermistor near the heater.
3. Disconnect. Measure resistance.
4. **~10,000Ω at room temp** = good.
5. **OL or 0Ω** = dead. Replace ($10-25).
**Check the thermistor first** because it's the cheapest fix and produces the same F24 symptom.
2
Test the Heating Element (5 minutes)
1. Disconnect element wires.
2. Resistance: **10-30Ω** = good. **OL** = dead.
3. Ground test: terminal to tub = **OL.** Any reading = ground fault.
4. If dead → replace ($25-80).
2. Resistance: **10-30Ω** = good. **OL** = dead.
3. Ground test: terminal to tub = **OL.** Any reading = ground fault.
4. If dead → replace ($25-80).
3
Check the Hot Water Supply (2 minutes)
Some KitchenAid models also use external hot water:
1. Is the hot tap fully open behind the washer?
2. Test: run a nearby hot faucet — is the water hot?
3. If no hot water from the house: water heater issue.
1. Is the hot tap fully open behind the washer?
2. Test: run a nearby hot faucet — is the water hot?
3. If no hot water from the house: water heater issue.
4
Check Wiring (5 minutes)
1. Inspect wires from board to element and thermistor.
2. Look for heat damage (these wires run near the element).
3. Check connectors for melting or corrosion.
4. Reseat all connections.
2. Look for heat damage (these wires run near the element).
3. Check connectors for melting or corrosion.
4. Reseat all connections.
5
Replace Element or Thermistor (15-20 minutes)
Based on your tests:
**Thermistor:** Pull out old, push in new. Connect wires.
**Element:** Remove center nut, push stud in, wiggle out. Install new, reconnect.
**Combo if both borderline:** Replace both to avoid a second access session.
**Thermistor:** Pull out old, push in new. Connect wires.
**Element:** Remove center nut, push stud in, wiggle out. Install new, reconnect.
**Combo if both borderline:** Replace both to avoid a second access session.
6
Descale the Element (Prevention)
Monthly maintenance:
1. Run hottest empty cycle.
2. Add citric acid (250g) or vinegar (2 cups).
3. Reduces limescale that causes element overheating and failure.
1. Run hottest empty cycle.
2. Add citric acid (250g) or vinegar (2 cups).
3. Reduces limescale that causes element overheating and failure.
When to Call a Pro
- •Element + thermistor combo — $130-$300 installed.
- •Board heater relay — board repair: $150-$400.
- •GFCI tripping with F24 — ground fault, professional diagnosis: $80-$150.
What It'll Cost You
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